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APPENDIX —————————————————————————————————————————————————————————
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166
Hooping Techniques
“Use the right tool for the right job” is a statement
many of us have heard throughout the years. This
statement holds true even in the embroidery
industry. The wrong size or type of embroidery frame
may result in poor design alignment during sewing
or damage the product altogether. You can take a
perfectly created design and ruin the final results by
simply not using the correct frame size, type or
technique designed for its application.
■ Frame Basics
Tubular frames: This type of frame allows tubular
fabric or pre-assembled garments to be placed
around the hook assembly. It allows embroidering
of the front of a garment without stitching through
the back of it.
Cap frames: These are specialized embroidery
frames (hoops) designed to hold caps for
embroidering. They are available in a variety of
styles for various machines, with two basic styles:
one that allows sewing a flattened cap (for use on
a flat machine) or one that allows sewing the cap
in its natural curved shape (for use on a tubular
machine).
Hooping fabric: The framed fabric and backing
should be perfectly flat and free of wrinkles or
bubbles. If there are bubbles or wrinkles that must
be removed, be sure that you pull on the fabric
and backing together. Pull no more than is
necessary to make the fabric flat and smooth.
Overstretching the fabric during this process may
cause puckers around the finished design when
the frame is removed. Gaps may also be
generated between design parts.
Inner/outer frame positioning: There should be a
slight ridge (3 mm (1/8 inch)) of fabric and
backing below the outer frame on the back side.
Tighten the screw only if the inner frame feels
loose. Avoid overtightening the screw as this will
cause puckers in the fabric and may “strip” the
screw.
Sapphire_chapt7.fm Page 166 Friday, November 18, 2005 12:10 PM