A.O. Smith 317443-000 Water Heater User Manual


 
32
B. Deburring
Use a knife, plastic pipe deburring tool, or file to remove burrs from
the end of small diameter pipe. Be sure to remove all burrs from
around the inside as well as the outside of the pipe. A slight chamfer
(bevel) of about 10°-15° should be added to the end to permit easier
insertion of the pipe into the end of the fitting. Failure to chamfer the
edge of the pipe may remove cement from the fitting socket, causing
the joint to leak.
STEP B
C. Test dry t of the joint
Tapered tting sockets are designed so that an interfaced t should
occur when the pipe is inserted about 1/3 to 2/3 of the way into the
socket. Occasionally, when pipe tting dimensions are at the tolerance
extremes, it will be possible to fully insert dry pipe to the bottom of
the tting socket. When this happens, a sufcient quantity of cement
must be applied to the joint to ll the gap between the pipe and tting.
The gap must be lled to obtain a strong, leak-free joint.
D. Inspection, cleaning, priming
Visually inspect the inside of the pipe and tting sockets and
remove all dirt, grease or moisture with a clean dry rag. If wiping
fails to clean the surfaces, a chemical cleaner must be used.
Check for possible damage such as splits or cracks and replace
if necessary.
Depth-of-entry
Marking the depth of entry is a way to check if the pipe has
reached the bottom of the fitting socket in Step F. Measure
the fitting depth and mark this distance on the pipe O.D. You
may want to add several inches to the distance and make a
second mark as the primer and cement will most likely destroy
your first one.
Apply primer to the surface of the pipe and tting socket with
a natural bristle brush. This process softens and prepares the
PVC or CPVC for the solvent cementing step. Move quickly and
without hesitation to the cementing procedure while the surfaces
are still wet with primer.
E. Application of solvent cement
Apply the solvent cement evenly and quickly around the
outside of the pipe at a width a little greater than the depth
of the tting socket.
Apply a light coat of cement evenly around the inside of the
tting socket. Avoid puddling.
Apply a second coat of cement to the pipe end.
STEP E
F. Joint assembly
Working quickly, insert the pipe into the tting socket bottom and
give the pipe or tting a 1/4 turn to evenly distribute the cement.
Do not continue to rotate the pipe after it has hit the bottom of the
tting socket. A good joint will have sufcient cement to make a
bead all the way around the outside of the tting hub. The tting
will have a tendency to slide back while the cement is still wet
so hold the joint together for about 15 seconds.
STEP F
G. Cleanup and joint movement
Remove all excess cement from around the pipe and tting with a
dry cotton rag. This must be done while the cement is still soft.
The joint should not be disturbed immediately after the cementing
procedure, and sufcient time should be allowed for proper curing
of the joint. Exact drying time is difcult to predict because it
depends on variables such as temperature, humidity and cement
integrity. For more specic information, you should contact your
solvent cement manufacturer.
STEP G