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8. When deliming has been completed, the heater should be flushed for 3
to 5 minutes with fresh water.
• Remove the deliming equipment, install the drain valve, open the
cold water inlet line and allow water to flow through heater and out
drain valve. Don’t forget to plug vent and cap opening in Flo-Jug.
9. When flushing is completed:
• Fill heater being certain to expel air from tank through a nearby hot
water faucet or, if removed, the relief valve opening.
• The heater relief valve can be washed in UN•LIME if it is limed.
• Replace relief valve if removed for deliming.
• Restore gas, oil or electrical supply to heater.
• Check for water leakage.
10. Flo-Jug cleanup:
• Allow scale to separate from UN•LIME and settle on bottom of Flo-
Jug.
• Pour off UN•LIME into plastic container and check for reuse.
• Rinse sediment from Flo-Jug.
CHECKLIST
Before contacting your dealer, check the water heater to see if the apparent
malfunction is caused by some external fault. Consulting this checklist may
eliminate the need for a repair call and restore hot water service.
NOT ENOUGH OR NO HOT WATER
1. Look for leaking or open hot water faucets. Check for excessive
usage.
2. Your gas company can check the gas input to the heater to see that it
is correct. An underfired heater will not produce hot water at its normal
recovery rate.
3. If the heater was installed when incoming water temperatures were
warm, colder incoming temperatures will create the effect of less hot
water.
4. The thermostat water temperature adjusting dial may be set too low.
5. If you cannot determine the cause of the problems, contact your dealer.
WATER TEMPERATURE IS TOO HOT
1. The thermostat water temperature adjusting dial may be set too high.
2. If lowering control setting does not reduce the water temperature contact
your dealer.
GAS SMELL AT THE HEATER
1. Close the main shutoff valve in the gas supply pipe near the heater,
see fig. 5 on page 9. The thermostat includes a gas control (top knob)
which can also be closed.
2. Call your gas company.
WATER LEAKAGE IS SUSPECTED
1. Check to see if the heater drain valve is tightly closed.
2. The apparent leakage might be condensation. In warm or humid
locations, condensation can accumulate and run from within the heater
or its piping.
• When a water heater is first installed and filled, the bottom of the
tank might condense water. The water accumulation, if excessive,
can drip into the floor shield. Also, during normal operation there
may be occasions when large quantities of water are drawn, chilling
the tank bottom. This too can result in condensation.
• Condensation, appearing in the vent pipe (water dripping from draft
diverter) during heater operation is evidence of poor vent action.
Possible causes are too long a vent pipe or improper chimney
operation.
3. If the leakage is from the temperature and pressure relief valve or its
discharge pipe, it may represent a normal condition. However,
see RELIEF VALVE section on page 7. DO NOT PLUG THE
TEMPERATURE AND PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE. Also, the leakage could
be due to unusually high water pressures or temperatures in the
system, or to a faulty relief valve. Your dealer or a qualified service
technician should be called to determine the cause of the problem and
to correct it.
4. If you cannot identify or correct the source of water leakage:
• Close the main shutoff valve in the gas supply pipe at the heater.
See fig. 5, page 9.
• Close the valve which feeds water to the cold water inlet at the top
of the heater.
• Contact your dealer.
WATER HEATER MAKES SOUNDS
1. Occasional excessive condensation, as explained under LEAKAGE,
can cause a sizzling sound as the moisture is vaporized by the gas
flame. This is a normal sound and may be disregarded.
2. Sediment and water scale accumulations may cause rumbling noises.
See MAINTENANCE or contact your dealer for details of flushing the
heater.
3. If you cannot identify or remedy the condition, contact your dealer.
CONDENSATION
Water vapor can condense on the cooler surfaces of the tank forming
droplets, these drip into the fire or run out on the floor. This is common at
the time of startup after installation, during periods of time when incoming
water is very cold, or the heater may be undersized for the requirements.
Droplets from the bottom of the flue may be due to corrosive combustion
products or improper vent. Check with your dealer for more information.
CATHODIC PROTECTION-ANODE
The anode rod is used to protect the tank from corrosion. Most hot water
tanks are equipped with an anode rod. The submerged rod sacrifices itself
to protect the tank. Instead of corroding the tank, water ions attack and eat
away the anode rod. This does not affect the water's taste or color. The
rod must be maintained to keep the tank in operating condition.
Anode deterioration depends on water conductivity, not necessarily water
condition. A corroded or pitted anode rod indicates high water conductivity
and should be checked and/or replaced more often than an anode rod that
appears to be intact. Replacement of a depleted anode rod can extend the
life of your water heater. Inspection should be conducted by a qualified
technician, and at a minimum should be checked annually after the warranty
period.