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7. Slide the unit back into the fireplace. Check to be sure that the trim panels are properly positioned and lie flat
against the front of the fireplace. If one or more of the panels is out of position, slide the unit out and reset by
loosening the mounting screws and repositioning in the slot.
8. Reinstall the top trim panel by sliding the rear lip of the top trim panel underneath the front lip of the
mounting bracket already secured to top of unit.
NOTE: Mount the top trim panel so that it sits in front of the top of the side trim panels..
9. Obtain the brass trim kit provided with unit and slip over the top and sides of trim panels. (Top ends of brass
may need to be trimmed to fit.)
10. Insure that the starter pipe or connector is properly secure in the stove flue exit, and aligned with the chimney
flue.
11. Mount top trim panel by drilling mounting holes in center of trim panel mounting brackets, with top end side
of top panel overlapping side panel.
12. Using insulation provided, peel and stick to back of panels overlapping fireplace dimensions by 1" on each
side and top. (See Figure 3.)
13. Next using high heat silicone or furnace cement run heavy bead of caulking around where panels meet the
stove. (See Figure 3.)
14. Slide the unit back into the fireplace. Check to be sure that the trim panels (and brass) are properly
positioned and lie flat against the front of the fireplace. If panels are out of position, slide the unit out and
reset by loosening the mounting screws and repositioning in the slot. With bar lift stove up in front. Place
insulation across front and the surface of hearth or bottom of fireplace to make complete seal.
15. To check seal of panels, use candle flame and go around the entire area sealed by silicone and insulation. If
flame leans toward inside of fireplace, add additional insulation. This ensures an airtight seal.
FINAL CHECK
1. Recheck the specified clearances.
2. Remove all foreign material from the firebox area.
3. Open the primary air draft; shot-gun air draft, and damper bypass, make sure ash drawer is sealed properly.
4. Plug the power cord into a 115V AC outlet. Set switch to “Manual” and rheostat to “High” position to ensure
motor operates properly.
5. Place 4 or 5 pieces of newspaper in the stove. Light paper and close the door. Ensure that the stove draws
properly through the primary drafts.
6. Check for smoke leaks around the door.
7. Open the door (slowly) and check for smoke escaping from the front of the stove. Smoking usually indicates
a defective or poorly positioned chimney. Some chimneys with a marginal draft can be preheated by lighting
newspaper and holding it near the open damper with a poker or fire tong. Once the chimney heats us, a
proper draft can usually by obtained.
NOTE: A poor drafting chimney can lead to poor heater performance. This is not a defect of the heater, but
with the chimney. Poor performance due to a poor drafting chimney is NOT a warranty problem.
If a thorough review of the Troubleshooting Guide in the rear of the manual does not solve your problem,
contact your dealer for assistance. If the homeowner installed the unit himself, there generally is a charge for
dealer to service the stove and inspect the installation.
8. The unit is painted with a specially formulated high temperature paint that cures during the first two or three
firings. DO NOT BUILD A LARGE ROARING FIRE UNTIL THIS CURING IS COMPLETE OR THE
HEATER FINISH MAY BE DAMAGED. (Paint may blister or peel off. This is not covered by warranty.)
You may notice a slight smoking effect and an odor of burning paint when you build the first fires. This is
normal and is not a cause for alarm. In some cases these fumes will activate a smoke alarm. Opening a
window near the unit will allow these fumes to escape.