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maintains clearances, keeps condensation and creosote within
the pipe, and is capable of withstanding a two to three thousand
degree chimney fire.
1.The connector pipe should slant down toward the
furnace a minimum of 1/4" to the foot. At no time should
the pipe turn downward toward the chimney or run
horizontal.
2.There should be no more than two 90 degree elbows.
3.The connector pipe should never be longer than six
feet. If it is absolutely necessary to make a run of more
than six feet (not recommended) use extra support
brackets every 3 feet.
4.The connector pipe should never be reduced to a
smaller size than flue opening on the furnace.
5.The connector pipe should not block the flue of the
chimney or extend into it in any way.
6.A good airtight thimble should be used to hold the
connector pipe in the chimney. It should be constructed
so the connector pipe can be removed for cleaning.
7.The connector pipe should not leave the heated portion
of the building to reach the chimney.
8.The connector pipe should not pass from one story to
the next before entering the chimney, nor should it pass
through any closed or enclosed space.
9.The connector pipe and any elbows must be of 24 ga.
or greater.
10. The connector pipe should not be located near or in a
walk way or well traveled area.
11. All male ends of connector pipe should run or point
towards the furnace.
DAMPERS ON STOVE PIPES
When you have installed the connector pipe between your
furnace and the chimney, tap the pipe hard with your fingernail.
Remember the sound it makes - it will be a "ting" echoing inside
the stove pipe. If later you tap and hear a muffled thud, you are
building up soot in the pipe and should clean it. This pipe should
be cleaned at least once or twice during the heating season.
DO NOT CONNECT TWO HEATERS TO THE SAME CHIMNEY
FLUE. The National Fire Prevention Association recommends
that woodburning appliances vent into a separate flue from gas
or oil furnaces. If such an installation is contemplated, first check
with a local building inspector to find out if a separate flue for a
woodburner is required.
If codes allow, use extreme care in making such installations. Be
sure that one pipe is higher than the other so that the two openings
will not be opposite each other. Also, when connecting two
heaters into the same chimney flue, the flue size should be large
enough to handle both heaters. Very few codes and standards
allow same flue connection. Such installations can cause severe
problems. Gas hoods and barometric dampers allow excess air
into the chimney causing cooling of the flue gases and a greater
creosote build-up potential. If the same flue connections are
used, chimneys must be inspected more frequently and the
chimney should be cleaned any time the creosote deposits
exceed 1/4" thickness. A creosote fire in such a chimney can burn
out of control because of the air leak through the barometric
damper or gas hood. Keeping the chimney clean and burning
well-seasoned wood is absolutely necessary. This type of instal-
lation does require more frequent inspection and maintenance.
HEATED AIR DISCHARGE
The Clayton furnace is designed for use as a supplemental
heating source. When used as a supplementary furnace, the
1600M is connected in conjunction with an oil, gas, or electric
furnace to the existing duct work which distributes the heated air
into several rooms and/or areas.
Though United States Stove Company expressly Does Not
recommend the use of its furnaces to be installed and/or used as
a free-standing heater, it is possible to achieve a reasonably safe
and functional installation
IF certain standard procedures are
followed. The following are guidlines only and are intended to
enable the furnace user to obtain resonable efficiency from his
furnace, and with due respect to safety when installing as a "free-
standing heater". If installed correctly, and in accordance with
the instructions found in this manual, your warm air furnace may
be installed as a "space heater" within living quarters, cabins,
garage, or workshop. Please adhere to the following:
1) The use of a cold air return and/or filter box is mandatory. This
will not only inscrease your blower life and provide filtered air, it
will also help prevent the blower or blowers from "capturing"
heated air exiting from the top of the furnace heat outlets.
2) If installed as purchased , without directing the heat away from
the furnace itself, it will simply sit and cycle, turning the blowers
off and on. The thermostat may not function properly.
3) All larger furnaces (or those with multi-speed blowers)
absolutely require BACK PRESSURE to prevent premature
winding failure. If allowed to operate at high RPM (As in "FREE
AIR" mode - no ductwork or flow restrictions) the windings
overheat, insulation melts and the motor simply burns up - not
covered under warranty.
CONNECTING HOT AIR DUCT TO
FURNACE
We strongly recommend that the warm air duct work be installed
by a home heating specialist. If doing the installation yourself,
before you decide which installation will best suit your needs,
consult a qualified heating technician and follow his recommen-
dations as to the safest and most efficient method of installation.
The warm air duct must be constructed of metal with a minimum
temperature rating of 250°F
The following illustrations are the only acceptable configurations
when installed with existing oil or gas furnaces.
INSTALLATION EXAMPLES
INSTALLATION NO.1
With this installation, a back draft damper is inserted into the heat
run before the plenum of the existing furnace to prevent air from
the existing furnace to blow back into the furnace when it is not
in use. When a back draft damper is employed, it should be
located as close to the existing furnace plenum as practical.
EXISTING
FURNACE
HOTBLAST
FURNACE
BACK
DRAFT
DAMPER