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Having a Problem?
1. The opener doesn’t operate from either the Door
Control or the remote control:
• Does the opener have electric power? Plug a lamp into
the outlet. If it doesn’t light, check the fuse box or the
circuit breaker. (Some outlets are controlled by a
wall switch.)
• Have you disabled all door locks? Review installation
instruction warnings on page 7.
• Is there a build-up of ice or snow under the door? The
door may be frozen to the ground. Remove any
restriction.
• The garage door spring may be broken. Have it replaced.
• Repeated operation may have tripped the overload
protector in the motor. Wait 15 minutes and try again.
2. Opener operates from the remote, but not from the
Door Control:
• Is the door control lit? If not, reverse the wires. If the
opener runs, check for a faulty wire connection at the door
control, a short under the staples, or a broken wire.
• Are the wiring connections correct? Review Installation
Step 6, page 12.
3. The door operates from the Door Control, but not
from the remote control:
• Is the door push bar flashing? If your model has the Lock
feature, make sure it is off.
• Program the opener to match the remote control code.
(Refer to instructions on the motor unit panel.) Repeat
with all remotes.
4. The remote control has short range:
• Change the location of the remote control in your car.
• Check to be sure the antenna on the side or back panel of
motor unit extends fully downward.
• Some installations may have shorter range due to a metal
door, foil backed insulation, or metal garage siding.
5. Opener noise is disturbing in living quarters of home:
• If operational noise is a problem because of proximity of
the opener to the living quarters, the Vibration Isolator Kit
89LM can be installed. This kit was designed to minimize
vibration to the house and is easy to install.
6. The garage door opens and closes by itself:
• Be sure that all remote control push buttons are off.
• Remove the bell wire from the door control terminals and
operate from the remote only. If this solves the problem,
the door control is faulty (replace), or there is an
intermittent short on the wire between the door control
and the motor unit.
• Clear memory and re-program all remote controls.
7. The door doesn’t open completely:
• Is something obstructing the door? Is it out of balance, or
are the springs broken? Remove the obstruction or repair
the door.
• If the door is in good working order but now doesn’t open
all the way, increase the up force. See Adjustment Step 2.
• If the door opens at least 5 feet (1.5 m), the travel limits
may need to be increased. One turn equals 2
" (5 cm) of
travel. See Adjustment Step 1.
Repeat the safety reverse test after the adjustment is
complete.
8. The door stops but doesn’t close completely:
• Review the travel limits adjustment procedures on page 20.
Repeat the safety reverse test after any adjustment of door
arm length, close force or down limit.
9. The door opens but won’t close:
• If the opener lights blink, check the safety reversing
sensor. See Installation Step 10.
• If the opener lights don’t blink and it is a new installation,
check the down force. See Adjustment Step 2. For an
existing installation, see below.
Repeat the safety reverse test after the adjustment
is complete.
10. The door reverses for no apparent reason and opener
lights don’t blink:
• Is something obstructing the door? Pull the emergency
release handle. Operate the door manually. If it is
unbalanced or binding, call a trained door systems
technician.
• Clear any ice or snow from the garage floor area where
the door closes.
• Review Adjustment Step 2.
• If door reverses in the fully closed position, decrease the
travel limits (Adjustment Step 1).
Repeat safety reverse test after adjustments to force or travel
limits. The need for occasional adjustment of the force and
limit settings is normal. Weather conditions in particular can
affect door travel.
11. The door reverses for no apparent reason and opener
lights blink for 5 seconds after reversing:
• Check the safety reversing sensor. Remove any
obstruction or align the receiving eye. See Installation
Step 10.
12. The opener lights don’t turn on:
• Replace the light bulbs (75 watts maximum). Use a
standard neck garage door opener bulb if regular bulb
burns out.
13. The opener lights don’t turn off:
• Is the Light feature on? Turn it off.
14. The opener strains or maximum force is needed to
operate door:
• The door may be out of balance or the springs may be
broken. Close the door and use the emergency release
handle to disconnect the trolley. Open and close the door
manually. A properly balanced door will stay in any point of
travel while being supported entirely by its springs. If it
does not, disconnect the opener and call a trained door
systems technician. Do not increase the force to
operate the opener.
15. The opener motor hums briefly, then won’t work:
• The garage door springs may be broken. See above.
• If the problem occurs on the first operation of the opener,
door may be locked. Disable the door lock.
Repeat the safety reverse test after the adjustment is
complete.
16. The opener won’t operate due to power failure:
• Use the emergency release handle to disconnect the
trolley. The door can be opened and closed manually.
When power is restored, press the Door Control push bar
and trolley will automatically reconnect (unless trolley is in
lockout position.) See page 24.
• The Outside Quick Release accessory (for use on garages
with no service door) disconnects the trolley from outside
the garage in case of power failure.
17. The chain droops or sags:
• It is normal for the chain to droop slightly in the closed
door position. Use the emergency release rope and handle
to disconnect the trolley. If the chain returns to the normal
height when the trolley is disengaged, and the door
reverses on a 2x4 laid flat, no adjustments are needed.
(See page 7.)