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Operational Conditions
Condensation
Moisture from the products of combustion condenses on
the tank surface and the outside jacket of the water heater
and forms drops of water which may fall onto the burner or
other hot surfaces. This will produce a “sizzling” or “frying”
noise. NOTE: This condensation is normal and should
not be confused with a leaking tank. Condensation may
increase or decrease at different times of the year.
High efficient energy saver water heaters will produce
larger amounts of condensation on initial start-up or when
a large amount of hot water is being used. NOTE: Do not
confuse this with a “tank leak”. Once the water reaches a
temperature of 120°F and the tank warms up (usually 1-2
hours), the condensation will stop.
IMPORTANT: It is always recommended that a suitable
drain pan be installed under the water heater to protect
the area from water damage resulting from normal
condensation production, a leaking tank or piping
connections. Refer to the “Location Requirements” section.
Under no circumstances is the manufacturer to be held
responsible for any water damage in connection with this
water heater.
Water Heater Sounds
During the normal operation of the water heater, sounds or
noises may be heard. These noises are common and may
result from the following:
1. Normal expansion and contraction of metal parts during
periods of heat-up and cool-down.
2. Condensation causes sizzling and popping within the
burner area and should be considered normal.
3. Sediment buildup in the tank bottom will create varying
amounts of noise and may cause premature tank
failure. Drain and flush the tank as directed under the
“Draining and Flushing” section.
Smoke/Odor
The water heater may give off a small amount of smoke
and odor during the initial start-up of the unit. This is due to
the burning off of oil from metal parts of a new unit and will
disappear after a few minutes of operation.
Safety Shut-off
This water heater is designed to automatically shut-off in
the event of the following:
1. The pilot flame is extinguished for any reason.
2. The water temperature exceeds 180°F (83°C).
3. Excessive build-up of lint and dust inside the
combustion chamber.
4. The ignition of flammable vapors.
Check the flame-trap for signs of high temperature (blue or
black discoloration). If there are signs of high temperature,
inspect your installation for a flammable vapor event (see
“Pilot Light Troubleshooting Flow Chart”). If you suspect
a flammable vapor incident has occurred, do not use this
appliance. Immediately call a qualified person to inspect the
appliance. Water heaters subjected to a flammable vapors
ignition will require replacement of the entire water heater.
A thermocouple is used to determine if a pilot flame is
present and will shut off the gas supply to the main burner
and the pilot burner if the flame is absent.
A high temperature limit switch or ECO (Energy Cut Off) in
the tank is used to shut off the unit if the water temperature
exceeds 180°F (83°C). The ECO is a single-use switch,
which, if activated, requires complete replacement of the
entire gas control valve/thermostat. If the ECO should
activate, the water heater cannot be used until the gas
control valve/thermostat is replaced by a qualified person.
Contact your local dealer for service information.
Anode Rod/Water Odor
Each water heater contains at least one anode rod, which
will slowly deplete while protecting the glass-lined tank
from corrosion and prolonging the life of the water heater.
Once the anode is depleted, the tank will start to corrode,
eventually developing a leak. Certain water conditions will
cause a reaction between this rod and the water. The most
common complaint associated with the anode rod is a “rotten
egg smell” produced from the presence of hydrogen sulfide
gas dissolved in the water. IMPORTANT: Do not remove
this rod permanently as it will void any warranties. The
parts list includes a special anode that can be ordered if
water odor or discoloration occurs. NOTE: This rod may
reduce but not eliminate water odor problems. The water
supply system may require special filtration equipment from
a water conditioning company to successfully eliminate all
water odor problems.
Artificially softened water is exceedingly corrosive because
the process substitutes sodium ions for magnesium and
calcium ions. The use of a water softener may decrease the
life of the water heater tank.
The anode rod should be removed from the water heater
tank every 3 years for inspection. The following are typical
(but not all) signs of a depleted anode rod:
• The majority of the rods diameter is less than 3/8”.
• Signifi cant sections of the support wire (approx. 1/3 or
more of the anode rod’s length) are visible.
If the anode rod show signs of either or both it should be
replaced. NOTE: Whether reinstalling or replacing the
anode rod, check for any leaks and immediately correct if
found.
In replacing the anode:
1. Turn off gas supply to the water heater.
2. Shut off the water supply and open a nearby hot water
faucet to depressurize the water
tank.
3. Drain approximately 5 gallons
of water from tank (Refer to the
“Draining and Flushing” section
for proper procedures). Close
drain valve.
4. Remove old anode rod.
5. Use Teflon
®
tape or approved
pipe sealant on threads and
install new anode rod.
6. Turn on water supply and open
nearby hot water faucet to purge
air from water system. Check
for any leaks and immediately
correct any if found.
7. Restart the water heater as
directed under the “Operating
Your Water Heater.” See the
“Repair Parts Illustration” section
for anode rod location.
TEFLON
®
is a registered trademark of E.I. Du Pont De Nemours and Company.