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EC95 13
Tap each chimney connector pipe with a small hammer or poke with a screwdriver to reveal where the metal is getting
thin due to corrosion on the inside. Elbows usually give out first. Replace as necessary.
YOU SHOULD ALWAYS INSPECT AND CLEAN THE HEATER’S VENTING SYSTEM BEFORE EACH HEATING
SEASON.
TROUBLESHOOTING
Problems can arise during the operation of any wood heater. These problems can usually be traced to such things as
the venting system, draft, aged or failed parts, fuel, and operator error.
The troubleshooting suggestions contained in this section of the manual apply to the operation of
all wood heaters.
Experience has shown that correct installation and good operating practices-including routine heater and venting system
maintenance, along with a good sound chimney, will eliminate most of the problems mentioned by this section of the
manual. Nonetheless, wood heater operators should make themselves aware of the nature, cause and solution to
possible problems so as to help themselves obtain the best possible service from this heater.
THE VENTING SYSTEM-KEY TO GOOD HEATER PERFORMANCE
A majority of performance problems with wood burning heaters can be traced to some factor in the venting system that
is adversely affecting the heater. Air will flow into the heater and smoke will flow up the chimney only if there is suffi-
cient difference between the air pressure in the room where the heater is located and the air pressure inside the chim-
ney. As hot gases and smoke flow up a chimney, the pressure in the chimney is lowered, creating a difference in
pressure inside and outside the chimney. When this pressure difference, often referred to as “draft pressure” or simply
as “draft”, is sufficient, air will be drawn into the heater through its thermostatically controlled inlet air damper. This air
supplies the oxygen necessary for the wood to burn. If the draft is not sufficient, insufficient oxygen will reach the
burning wood and it will burn poorly. This condition can also cause smoke and dangerous gases to spill or backpuff
from the heater into the room. Backpuffing occurs when the air flow through the heater is insufficient to burn all the
gases being released by the wood causing them to build up until they ignite as a minor explosion. This causes smoke
to puff out of every opening in the heater and venting system.
Too much draft may cause excessive temperature in the heater. An uncontrollable burn or a glowing red heater part or
chimney connector is an indication of excessive draft. The amount of draft in the chimney depends on the length of the
chimney, local geography, nearby obstructions (even a tree that has grown tall can affect the draft of a chimney that
was previously trouble-free), and other factors.
The common unit used to measure draft is “INCHES IF WATER”. To determine the draft of your chimney, a draft
pressure reading should be taken with a DRAFT METER or a WATER MANOMETER. This requires someone with
proper equipment and knowledge of how to use it. Your heater dealer should be able to preform this task for you or
recommend someone who can.
For this heater, installations with a draft of .02 inches of water or less are considered marginal and will not burn reliably
as noted above. For this heater, it is not recommended that the draft exceed .06 inches of water or overfiring can occur
as noted above. The recommended operating range for this heater is .03 to .06 inches of water.
WHAT TO DO IF THE HEATER SMOKES OR BURNS POORLY OR EXCESSIVE CREOSOTE ACCUMULATES IN
THE CHIMNEY
1. Open a window slightly to see if the conditions improve. If opening a window improved the performance of the heater
or stops the spillage of smoke into the room, the problem is caused by a slight vacuum in the room. The vacuum
can be the result of the room being so tightly constructed that the air removed from the room by the heater is not
replaced by normal infiltration of air from outside the room.
The vacuum can also be caused by the loss of air from the room through the kitchen or bathroom ventilating fans,
other chimneys or vents, etc. The only solution to this type problem is to reduce the air lost from the room or provide
a source for air to enter the room.
2. Check the pipes connecting the heater to the chimney for loose or unsealed joints that may allow air to leak into the
chimney system.
3. Examine your method of building and tending the fire in the heater. If you add too much fresh wood at each refuel
ing, or attempt to operate the heater at too low a combustion rate for the amount of wood present in the firebox, your
failure to follow proper practices may be causing the problem. Also check for ash buildup in the ash pan. Ashes can
restrict air flow through the burning wood.
4. Check the height of the chimney. A chimney that is too short will not develop sufficient draft or allow wind to
interfere with the draft. See figure 11 for correct chimney height.
5. Check the chimney for cracks or holes that might allow air to leak into the chimney. If the chimney is equipped with
an ash clean out, be sure the door is closed and fits tightly. The door may have to be temporarily sealed with tape or
furnace cement to be as air tight as required. An excellent way to check an exterior chimney for leaks is to preform
a smoke test building a small wood fire in the heater, adding a small amount of wood to the fire to make it smoke
heavily, momentarily blocking the top of the chimney, and watching for smoke to leak out of any opening or cracks.