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W415-0512 / B / 11.15.05
Burn only dry, clean unpainted wood that has been seasoned.
It produces more heat and less soot or creosote. Freshly cut
wood contains about 50% moisture while after proper sea-
soning only about 20% of the water remains. As wood is
burned, this water boils off consuming energy that should be
used in heating. The wetter the wood, the less heat is given
off and the more creosote is produced.
Both hardwood and softwood burn equally well in this stove
but hardwood is denser, will weigh more per cord and burn a
little slower and longer. Firewood should be split, stacked in
a manner that air can get to all parts of it and covered in early
spring to be ready for burning that fall. Dry firewood has cracks
in the end grain. Cut the wood so that it will fit horizontally, front
to back, making for easier loading and less of a likelihood
that the wood will roll onto the glass. Ideal lengths of wood
are approximately 12" for EPA 1100, 1100C, 1100L, 1150 and
1101, 16 1/2" for EPA 1400, 1400L and 1401, and 21" for EPA
1900.
1. Remove cast top.
2. Pull pin from top door hinge. It is important to hold the
door while removing the pin. Pivot the door to clear the top
door hinge. Lift the door off of the lower pin. Do not pivot the
door any further than necessary.
DOOR REMOVAL (1100C ONLY)
WOOD PILE
MAINTENANCE
DON'TS
1. Take ash out immediately. Let it accumu-
late to a depth of at least one inch. A good
ash layer provides for a longer lasting and
better burning fire.
2. Burn wet wood.
3. Close the door too soon or damper down
too quickly.
4. Burn one large log rather than two or three
smaller, more reasonably sized logs.
5. Burn at continually "low setting", if glass
door is constantly blackened. This means
the firebox temperature is too low.
DO'S
1. Build a hot fire
2. Use only dry wood.
3. Several pieces of medium sized wood
are better than a few big pieces.
4. Clean chimney regularly.
5. Refuel frequently using medium sized
wood.
6. "Fine Tune" the air settings for optimum
performance.