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53D9041. Rev 1 03/03
FIREPLACE OPERATION
WARNING: If a decorative gas appliance is used in the fireplace the fireplace damper must be fixed in an open
position. (See additional operation information in section titled “Operation Guidelines”.)
WHICH WOODS ARE BEST?
Each wood species offers something different in aroma or heat value, and you should consider your needs and
desires before building your fire.
Softwoods, like pine, spruce, and fir are easy to ignite because they are resinous. However, a fire built entirely
of softwoods burns out quickly and requires frequent replenishment. While a softwood fire is not too desirable
for a long evening, it’s fine in the morning when you want quick warmth, or late in the evening when you want
a fire that will burn out before you go to bed.
On occasion when a longer fire is desired, it’s best to combine softwoods with the heavier hardwoods such as
ash, beech, birch, maple, oak and hickory. These hardwood species burn less rapidly, with shorter flames, and
produce steady, glowing coals.
For the most pleasing aroma, you’ll want to burn the wood of fruit trees such as apple and cherry, or nut trees
such as beech, hickory and pecan. Such wood is generally more expensive, but a little combined with other
wood, goes a long way. Start your fire with a mixture of softwood and hardwood, then add some fruit or nut
wood for nostalgic aroma. Since most woods will not burn well when freshly cut, the wood you purchase
should be reasonably dry. The sizes you buy are dictated by the size of your fireplace. Purchase logs that will
fit when laid across your grate, and ask that the larger, heavier logs be split. Kindling should be short, easily
split lengths of softwood, lumber yard or mill scraps, or twigs and branches gathered from your yard.
HOW TO BUILD A BETTER FIRE
The first three fires should be of moderate size to allow the fireplace to adjust and the bricks to cure before
being subjected to larger fires.
First, make sure your room is well ventilated, your damper open and the flue is unobstructed. Then make sure
your wood is dry and seasoned. Unseasoned wood burns poorly and coupled with poor ventilation or an
obstructed chimney, leads to smoking problems.
If your fireplace is equipped with an outside combustion air assembly, open its combustion air damper by
pushing upward on the lever located above the firebrick on the corresponding side of the firebox.
NEVER USE GASOLINE, GASOLINE-TYPE LANTERN FUEL, KEROSENE, CHARCOAL LIGHTER FLUID, OR
SIMILAR
LIQUIDS TO START OR "FRESHEN UP" A FIRE IN THIS FIREPLACE. KEEP ALL SUCH LIQUIDS
WELL
AWAY FROM THE FIREPLACE WHILE IT IS IN USE. USE OF THIS FUEL CAN CAUSE A SERIOUS
EXPLOSION
.
Prepare your fire by placing two logs on the iron grate or fire basket, and laying the tinder between them.
Tinder may be dry scrap paper, twigs, or bark. On top place a small handful of twigs or split softwood kindling.
Place more dry logs over this base. Keep logs close together, as narrow air spaces between them promote
better drafts, and heat reflected between adjacent surfaces aids in raising and maintaining combustion
temperatures.
You’ll need a minimum of three logs, preferably four, to make a good fire. Add kindling and new logs as needed
to rekindle a dying fire. New logs should be added at the rear grate after raking the coals toward the front. DO
NOT OVERFIRE THE FIREPLACE. Overfire conditions may be created by large amounts of kindling, building scraps,
or other improper fuels.
Ashes, important because they form a bed of glowing coals, should only be left to accumulate within an inch or
two of the bottom of the grate. Excess ashes can be used to check a flaming fire; or to “bank” your fire, cover
the logs with ashes. A “banked” fire will hold glowing coals for 8-10 hours, thereby saving a fire for later use.